How to Alter Underbust Size in Patterns

When it comes to pattern making, understanding how to alter underbust size is crucial for creating garments that fit perfectly. The underbust area is a critical part of the body, and getting it right ensures that the garment is comfortable and looks great. In this article, we will explore various methods to alter underbust size in patterns, helping you create custom-fit garments with ease.

1. Measure the Underbust Area

Before making any alterations, it’s essential to measure the underbust area accurately. Use a soft measuring tape to measure around the body at the level of the underbust. Make sure the tape is snug but not too tight, and take note of the measurement.

2. Determine the Pattern Size

Next, identify the size of the pattern you are working with. Patterns are usually labeled with size ranges, such as 0-2, 4-6, or 8-10. Determine which size range your underbust measurement falls into.

3. Add or Subtract Length

If your underbust measurement is smaller or larger than the pattern size, you’ll need to add or subtract length from the pattern. To do this, mark the desired underbust length on the pattern and draw a straight line from the marked point to the bottom of the pattern. Cut along this line and trim the excess fabric.

4. Adjust the Waistline

To adjust the underbust size, you may need to alter the waistline as well. If you need to make the garment smaller, narrow the waistline by reducing the width of the pattern. Conversely, if you need to make the garment larger, widen the waistline by increasing the width of the pattern.

5. Redistribute Fullness

In some cases, you may need to redistribute fullness in the underbust area. To do this, mark the desired underbust length on the pattern and draw a straight line from the marked point to the bottom of the pattern. Cut along this line and trim the excess fabric. Then, redraw the pattern to add fullness in the desired area.

6. Test the Fit

After making the alterations, it’s essential to test the fit of the pattern. Try the garment on a dress form or a fitting model to ensure that the underbust area fits correctly. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern until you achieve the desired fit.

7. Repeat as Needed

If you need to alter the underbust size for multiple patterns, repeat the process for each pattern. Keep in mind that different patterns may require different alteration techniques, so it’s essential to tailor your approach to each individual pattern.

By following these steps, you can successfully alter underbust size in patterns and create custom-fit garments that flatter your body. Remember to measure accurately, make gradual adjustments, and test the fit throughout the process. Happy sewing!